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Indeed, this coral archipelago in the Indian Ocean, 23 miles off the eastern coast of Tanzania, still has many of the features that it did when it was an important trading center and its historic Stone Town served as the capital of an Omani sultanate. Palaces have been turned into museums and cultural centers, and grand Swahili mansions have been reborn as restaurants and boutique hotels.
Stone Town 4 p. Many buildings date to the 19th century, and their most striking feature is their ornate doors. Carved out of mahogany or teak, some Zanzibari doors are adorned with brass spikes, while others have intricate patterns, like vines or lotus flowers, etched onto them.
Standout portals include the golden door at the House of Wonders, the entrance to the Old Fort, and a collection of doors on Baghani Street. Sung Poetry 6 p. Today visitors can enjoy taarab concerts at the Mtoni Palace Ruins, the one-time residence of a 19th-century sultan.
Led by the esteemed musician Mohammed Issa Matona, students from the local Dhow Countries Music Academy perform complex and haunting songs in an open-air courtyard lighted by a bonfire. Waterfront Snacks 9 p. Take a leisurely stroll through the evening food market at Forodhani Gardens, a popular meeting place on the waterfront.
The park received a face-lift several years ago, and now has new walkways, better lighting and plenty of benches. There are dozens of stalls, selling everything from fish skewers to spicy soup to mango slices dusted with chile salt starting at about 6 to 10 p. Nighttime Diversions 10 p. As in many conservative Muslim cities, the night life here verges on sleepy. Yet there are pockets of liveliness. For swankier surroundings and less chance of hearing off-key Queen covers, head to the chic rooftop lounge at the Maru Maru hotel for a dawa cocktail, made with the molasses-flavored Tanzanian spirit Konyagi, honey and lime 8, shillings ; and views overlooking the 17th-century Old Fort.