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It may not be somewhere that all the guests at the luxury hotels become aware of during their stay, yet it has many past and present links to those establishments. Despite the low income, amazingly some of the money is remitted to the relevant motherland, supporting loved ones left behind: after all, this is the reason that many of these people came to Cape Verde in the first place. Some of the menfolk have set up tiny shops and bars in the illegally constructed township buildings, serving their own community.
There is no electricity and nearly all the houses lack sanitation. In the rainy season, the township floods, raising the risk of disease. Toilet needs are satisfied in the nearby woods; at night the residents do not even bother to walk that far. Prostitution and drug abuse are problems, though the police have had success in reducing the latter. Momo, from Senegal, smiles and shakes his head when I ask him if he believes the talk of a new hotel being built on one of the southern beaches, something that might offer to make good use of his skills as an electrician and bring him some income.
A shiny new development of social housing sits next to the ramshackle dwellings, built to entice the people to leave their community.